From Graves Campground to Big Meadows

Once you’ve ridden around the neighborhood a bit and checked out the trails at Graves Mountain Lodge it is time to head for Big Meadows.  Here’s How:

 

   This is an easy trail so long as your horse is in decent shape. It is mostly uphill on the way there and mostly downhill on the way back which means if your horse gets too pooped to continue on the way up you can  simply turn around and give him an easy ride home.  Most people seem to allow 4 to 4.5 hours to get there and back plus time for a break at the top.  You can do it in less time if your horse is fit because it is easy to trot or canter all or part of the two or three miles of relatively flat trail at the top.

   First, here are the facts:  Expect to see occasional weekend riders in summer/fall and very occasional walkers except for the mile closest to Big Meadows which is popular with families and hikers in the summer. Expect to run across bears on spring and fall days when no people or riders are around. Water is  available  at various streams along the way and of course there is a restaurant at Big Meadows.  This trail has sections of half inch gravel and sections that have a lot of 4” to 12” rocks on the trail.  Boots or shoes will be needed for most horses.

   For a nominal charge you can park (or camp) at Graves Mountain Lodge Campground where there are facilities, or you can park for free (but not camp) a mile up the road at the Junction of Finks Hollow Lane and Rt. 670 (Old Blue Ridge Turnpike)  from the Lodge where there are no facilities except water from the Rose River. There is plenty of room to park and turn a four horse gooseneck and room for four or five trailers to park. Of course, you may also park at Big Meadows parking area on Skyline Drive and ride DOWN the mountain.

    Now for the fun part: Starting at Graves campground, go west on 670 one mile on the level hardtop.  Take a left on Finks Hollow Lane and the next mile is a steady uphill pull of almost exactly 2 miles. The first mile is hardtop and about half way you will pass Mr. Gordon’s stand on your left where you may want to buy some pickles or jam on the way back.  The second mile is gravel and, when you reach the top of the hill the road ends and the trail proper begins.

   
You will see a red gate (photo on left) and behind it is the trail and right of way that leads through the Rapidan Wildlife Management Area (WMA) and then into the Shenandoah National Park (SNP); The private property signs refer to the property to the left of the trail. To the right of the red gate is a space through which a horse can go (or you can cut through the trees by going through or around the silver gate that is 20 feet downhill and then following the narrow rail through the woods and onto the main trail ). 

    Once through the red gate, you are on the right of way. The next section of the trail is rocky and uphill. Once you are over the first hill you will pass the Lower Dark Hollow Trail (marked with a sign) on your right and, for the next couple of miles the trail is mostly rocky .  This is a pretty ride through deep woods and past large boulders, old rockslides and the occasional rock face. I’ve never stopped and tied my horse and climbed up into these big rocks. But, I bet if I did, I would find a few shoes, a couple of chewed up back packs and maybe a water bottle or two.  Because, for sure, there are caves up there and we all know who lives in caves, don’t we...

    Slowing to a walk on this trail is no big punishment because it is extremely pretty; the woods here are mostly poplar and oak
with patches of acid loving trees such as hemlock. In April and May the trilliums, dutchman’s britches and other wildflowers are blooming.  If you look for them in areas with acidic soil, (for example, where there is mountain laurel, yellow pine and mosses) you may see some  lady slippers in May (photo on left).  
    A couple of miles on, the hard part ends and you will feel the trail level out as you ride through some huge old poplars at Broyles Gap.   I always feel that there must have been a house or farm there at some point.  Maybe the Broyle family? Anyway, this is where the fun starts because you will emerge from the steep-at-times, rocky, sometimes single file trail and take a right onto the wide, gravel fire road that runs from Camp Hoover to Big Meadows.  This trail looks like a veritable interstate compared to the other trails in this area (don’t worry though, I’ve seen exactly two vehicles during the many, many times I’ve ridden up and down the fire road).  It is groomed by fairies at night who rake the
gravel smooth so, if you come back down from Big Meadows after dark, be careful.   Going up, there are a couple of spots on the right with beautiful views (especially in winter when the leaves are off) though you may have to dismount to climb up on to the outcropping from where you get the best view.

    People often see bears on this road and there are some nice sedums, (for the horticulturally challenged that’s a type of plant,) that grow wild among the rocks. The grade is gentle compared to the trail you have just left and the wide grassy edges are where you can let your horse run if you are so inclined – I usually do, but we take a rest first since the previous five miles can knock the stuffing out of a horse. A mile after joining the fire road you will pass the concrete post marking the turn off to the Stony Mountain trail.  This is basically a connector to the Rose River Fire Road and is quite rocky but very pretty in the spring. If you wanted a shorter trip, you could take this turn and then take another right when you meet the Rose River trail.  The RR trail will lead you back down the mountain to Graves.

    But don’t quit -- you are almost there. And, as you near Big Meadows, the trail becomes almost level and, again, this is a great
place to let your horse run. About a mile before Skyline Drive, you will pass the marker (on your left) for the single file trail that leads down to Camp Hoover. For some reason, dozens of gooseberry bushes line the sides of the trail along this section.  Perhaps they are escapees from the homesteads that were here before the Park...

    Slow down here for you are back in civilization and, on warm weekends, you will run into normal people hiking with their dogs and children.  The ones from the city sometimes grab their children and dogs and jump off the road onto the grass in terror as soon as they see a horse.  It is really funny though I am always slightly embarrassed by their anxiety and try to reassure them my horse is not a carnivore. Others ooo and aaaaah and, once in a while, I’ll stop and chat and watch their faces as my horse tries to ooze closer and closer to their pockets where he KNOWS there are horse treats.

    Big Meadows is before you now, but be warned, horses are not allowed in the open fields – you must stay on the trail. Also, beware of the drain openings on the right shoulder.

    Directly across Skyline Drive from the end of the trail is a nicely shaded hitching rail and you can walk from there to the bathrooms, coffee and hot chocolate.  But first, draw straws: Loser stays with the horses.


Once rested you will have a choice of three ways to return:


1.You can head north (staying on the west side of Skyline Drive)  and, following the SNP signs,  pick up the Rose River trail which will take you all the way back down to Route 670 and on to the Graves campground.

2.You can back track and take a left when you reach the Stony Mountain trail at the marker I mentioned earlier about halfway to the red gate.  This is a nice trail but it is rough in places where it was washed out.  I usually dismount and walk my horse down the worst section of perhaps 1/4 mile.  This trail leads you down to the Rose River trail where you take a right and follow the trail out a few miles to Route 670 and on to Graves Mountain Lodge. 

3.You can backtrack the entire trail.


Actually, there are some other options but they mean your ride will grow to 25 miles plus. I don’t have those mapped on my GPS at this writing but I plan to add maps of these.